The National : NATIONAL AUG SEPT OCT 2015
58 THE AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL DRYCLEANER & LAUNDERER AUGUST SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2015 SUNDAY, JANE HARDACRE, TAFAESA Kerry King had the pleasure of introducing Jane Hardacre of the TAFE SA campus, and said Jane loves fabrics, and fashion and has been in the fashion industry for 25 years, being both a designer and pattern maker, with an excellent knowledge of fibres and fabrics, and garment con- struction. School of Fashion “Yes. In answer to the question in every drycleaner’s mind, yes. Our students at the School of Fashion do in fact get informa- tion on fabrics, on the care of fabrics, and labelling. “We use the analogy .... you would never build a house if you didn’t understand the stress values of timber, bricks, mortar, etc. “But they are young, creative, they don’t really get it. They look for shiney fabrics and great trims and they want to CREATE. It doesn’t really click until something goes wrong. Jane encouraged questions from the audience throughout her presentation. Q: How important to the design is it to think of the cleaning process? A: Very important. But when you say designer you have to realise there are 3 main areas of provision of fashion to the end user. • Mass manufacture • Couture • Small designer With mass manufacturing you are generally talking garments made in China Some are pretty good manufacturing, and some are not. When you have a large organisation label (e.g. Blue Illusion) all of their garments are produced in China. A product and technical pack is sent to China with a trade sketch, and possibly swatches of fabric. You get a price for your product at the dock, say $5 for a polo shirt. FOB (Freight On Board). So if I find a problem in Adelaide, I have to determine it with China. If it is a good factory it will do a lot of testing. There are a lot of opportunity for the Australian designer to examine the samples as they go along, for fit, for style, pre- production, and there could be several before we agree. The Production Sample is taken offline and tested. So there are lots of opportunities for correction. We don’t want to hear that Blue Illusion, or Witchery, or any good name brand has a problem or a bad reputation. We receive them in Australia, examine them, wear them to test for fit and comfort. Ces Batton commented that garments from Target clean very well. There are no problems, it is a high standard of manufacture. Jane seized on this as the perfect example. Yes, Target produce garments in their hundreds of thousands. The last thing they want is returns at the counter, so it is manufactured and tested to the enth degree. Then you have the “couture” range, glamour garments. These can be the most problematic, not just the fabrics they use, the but the trims and the combinations of fabrics. If bead trims are glass and they should not be drycleaned then they should be hand wash FIVE LITTLE HOLES There have been a growing number of complaints about holes in shirts and t-shirts. Usually located on the front of the garment around waist height. Although some seatbelts have been found to have sharp edges, and certainly some belts worn over jeans or skirts can rub, it has been determined that the fashion for stone bench tops, which often have quartz crystals embedded in them, is largely to blame. Microscopically, these crystals are like little knives and will slice a garment that rubs against the bench top. The solution is to have bench edges “bevelled”, and watch out for belts. Jane Hardacre and Kerry King of TAFESA .... what I wouldnt give to be a fly on the staffroom wall.
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