The National : NATIONAL AUG SEPT OCT 2015
THE AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL DRYCLEANER & LAUNDERER AUGUST SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2015 59 only. But really, people don’t like to hand wash, mainly because it’s messy, the drying is time consuming, and ironing can be a nightmare. The third end will be the small designer, often creating “one offs”, the mother of the bride and the like, evening wear, bridal gowns. Here, there is no responsibility as to the drycleanability of the garment because they have not purchased the fabric. The consumer has bought the fabric. A reputable fabric shop can and will provide a care label as attached to that bolt of fabric, but can it be trusted? Is it from that bolt or is it a label that was on the floor and just got stuck on the nearest bolt? With golf shirts and similar garments apart from colour fastness, abrasion, shrinkage, etc. it is essential to test for spirality (where seams twist around after cleaning.) Spirality comes with the territory with those garments you buy that have no seams. A circular knitting machine with lots of cones of yarns knits in a tube, and they grow quickerly, using more cones of thread, but it leads to spirality which is a big problem. “So we teach our students to test for these. If you are an owner operator and you see garments from Target, Witchery and the like, you can be reasonably sure the garment will clean and finish well. The one offs are the bigger problem and you should always be on the alert. We have fabric retailers who are not quite on the ball and many have to establish what the fibre is by burning it and this is not a good way to make a final pronouncement on fibre content. Young designers don’t take notice until they get problems, such as the matching of black and white fabrics with dye bleed problems. Q: The label might read “Do not wash. Do not dryclean”. what do we do? A: Chances are the consumer didn’t read it when they bought it. 90% of consumers never read the label. Some discussion took place on this and it was pointed out that garments are rarely regarded as “disposable”. That is, you should be able to purchase a garment safe in the knowledge that it can be either washed or dryclean safely. If it can not, or the care labels say it can not, the consumer should be able to return it to the retailer as being unfit for purpose. One of the problems with drycleaning is that it removes finishes: silicones, mmmmmmm, these are removed and with that so is the shininess, or body, which was an inherent part of the attractiveness of the garment. Likewise if pvc or pu clothing or trims harden due to a loss of softeners during the recommended cleaning process it is a manufacturing error. If the label says “Drycleanable” then the finish must be able to withstand drycleaning: it is a Manufacturing problem if the finishes are removable in the care process recommended. The talk then turned to laundering, and Jane said Hemp is her personal passion. It is a perfectly legitimate fibre, but an expensive one.
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