The National : JUNE-SEPT 2017
FIC THE AUSTRALIAN NATIONAL DRYCLEANER & LAUNDERER JUNE JULY AUGUST SEPTEMBER 2017 From: DIA Info [mailto: firstname.lastname@example.org] Sent: Wednesday, 27 September 2017 9:30 PM To: brookXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Cc: 'Brian Tonkin' Subject: black and white silk trousers Hi Brooke, My name is Howard Duffy and I am the Technical officer for the Dry Cleaning Institute. Your complaint has been forwarded to me for com- ment and mediation. Thank you for the comprehensive photo files and I will refer to some of them in my answer. I will also attach some bulletins from the International Fabricare Institute, the world’s leading authority on Dry Cleaning and Laundry issues. They also run an international testing laboratory used by dry cleaners, launderers, retailers , textile manufacturers and courts of law. The problem showing up in the photos supplied is called YARN SLIPPAGE. This is relatively common in sheer and silky textiles. I am surprised your seamstress friend was not aware as it can be easily Googled. It is to do with the weave and slipperiness of the fibres used in the fabric. The fibres in the fabric are able to move easily, due to the weave, and the textile strength of the fabric is compromised. You will notice that in jpeg file number 5889 the slippage and tears are at the point of stress, along the seam line. In jpeg file number 5895, what looks like colour run from black to white is, in fact, movement of the yarns. So if you look closely you will see white dots in the black areas which mirror the shadows of the shading in the white areas. This is because the fabric has the pattern printed on after the white fabric was made, the dye is called pigment printing for want of a better description. The fibres have shifted position by sliding over themselves and are now in a different position. This is what is causing the appearance of dye run. The fabric, although beautiful, is not a practical fabric for the end use. The problem is not the fault of the dry cleaner. Although the mechanical action of a normal dry cleaning cycle may have contributed to the yarns slipping, the garment is labelled Dry Cleanable. Tension during wear is usually the culprit, and given the age of the trousers and the stated number of times you have worn them, then a complaint to the manufacturer would be the most appropriate course of action for you to undertake, remembering that under consumer law in Australia you have an implied warranty of serviceability. Once again, a quick Google search will give you the parameters. Regards Howard Duffy DIA Technical Officer Written by Jim Kirby, DLI Textile Analyst. ©Drycleaning&LaundryInstitute,2009.PrintedintheUnitedStates.Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisworkmaybereproducedinanyformor by electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without permission from the publisher. TABS DRYCLEANING & LAUNDRY INSTITUTE BULLETIN DLIBULLETIN—TEXTILEANALYSISBULLETINSERVICENO.377 TABS—377 January/February 2009 SILK CAN SPLIT NO. 377 WHAT IS THE PROBLEM? Splits or “cuts” on certain types of silk fabric that are con- structed with thin yarns in one direction and thicker yarns in the other direction. WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE? The damage appears most often as horizontal tears in the fabric. It is often so straight that the damage looks as if the fabric was cut. The rips are usually short, from one to three inches, although sometimes they can be longer. WHAT CAUSED IT? The weakness begins during flexing, abrasion, or stress dur- ing wear. The very thin warp yarns become broken, while the thicker filling yarns remain intact. The damage may ap- pear before cleaning or not show up until the agitation of a care process aggravates already weakened yarns. CAN IT BE PREVENTED? Neither the garment owner nor the cleaner can take any pre- cautions to prevent this type of damage. The manufacturer must use fabrics that have a more balanced construction. WHO IS RESPONSIBLE? Only the manufacturer can be held responsible as this sit- uation is due to the limited durability of the fabric. IS THERE A REMEDY? There is no effective method to repair this damage. This sleeve “split” apart during drycleaning due to a construction deficiency. TABS IT’S BLACK AND WHITE AS FAR AS HOWARD DUFFY IS CONCERNED!
DRY CLEANER MAY 2017